Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013
To attend a Burberry Prorsum show is a high honour, whether you are seated or standing. The atmosphere, dear readers, is nothing short of electric – there is a buzz in the air as the British musicians play through the speakers, and the chatter of hundreds of fashion-folk is like a cloud of sound in the venue. But unlike every other show, where the lights go down and the chatter stops, one can literally feel the collective intake of breath the audience takes before the first model emerges.
This anticipation, then, for the SS13 season of the Burberry Prorsum line was not ill-taken. In fact, one could hear the audience swooning over the collection as the models gave face down the runway, showing off the classic Burberry trench in its new season incarnation, as well as Christopher Bailey’s ingenious vision for the new season. Based on a concept of capes and corsets, the collection was a visual explosion of color, texture, lightness and the genuine aura of effortless style. The wide color palette ranged from pop-like metallic hues that contrasted beautifully with the plain white shoes and the always glamorous hair and make-up for the day, to soft blush tones of pink and cream for a softer, refined elegance, to the deep, rich jewel tones for evening, creating a collection that could literally bring you from day to night in just three looks.
The inclusion of the metallic fabrics was a pleasant surprise, of course, given Bailey’s tendency to go for more classic fabric choices, however it only emphasizes the future of this iconic brand – the show, apart from being seen live, in person, was streamed to the nearby and newly opened Regent’s Street store, whilst the rest of the globe looked on on their computers for the live stream. This inclusion, then, of the metallic fabrics, had quickly made way for the more softer and classic fabrics that Bailey is known for – despite his need to look forward, he knows that one must never lose the heritage or the history of the brand.
The fitted silhouettes were joined by a multitude of different shapes – A-line, oversized, peplum; all indicative of Prorsum’s status as a trend and taste maker in this modern age. The concept of corsets and capes, as stated earlier, played heavily in to the collection in ways that were both obvious and subtle – form fitted swimsuits under long capes made way to streamlined dip-dyed/ombre dresses with capelets, which eventually made way to sexy cocktail dresses with jewel tone capelets.
Bailey’s ability to keep renewing and refining and tweaking the brand and its image, but still keeping true to the heritage of the Burberry name, is admirable. It is so admirable, in fact, that when he took his bow at the end of the show, the applause was so loud at one point, that the music was drowned out. Because not only is this man smart, he is a genius.
After all, who else would send everyone an e-mail as soon as they entered the show space – “Welcome to Hyde Park” indeed, Mr. Bailey. Bravo.