Erdem Spring 2013
The words Erdem and ‘pretty’ typically go together like any well made comparative – peanut butter and jelly, toothbrush and toothpaste; you get the jist. But when Erdem Moralioglu states that his inspiration was female sci-fi writer Zenna Henderson, you have to do a double take. Surely that means a new approach?
Not entirely necessarily. Whilst the clothes remain the same – pretty, feminine, perfect for day and night and every occasion in between (though perhaps not for workwear) – the concept was interestingly quirky. Snakeskin against pastel and appliqued flowers in neons dominated the dome-like venue, and whilst the floral motifs weren’t groundbreaking – one might wish to quote Miranda Priestly at this point – it wasn’t something we could be sick of. In fact, one finds yourself intrigued by the neon florals, which are harking to a more space-age take on the collection, as if the models traipsing around the dome are that of a new, alien race from Planet Fashion. The shapes and silhouettes are typical of Moralioglu, with their soft curves and simple lines ensuring that this collection is all about pure, untainted femininity – a departure from his previous collection, which had an aura of masculine femininity seeping from its seams. And another departure from last season? The inextricably lingering odd-ness of the collection was ripe, almost like the flowers were emitting a strong, yet beautiful aroma which insisted on staying.
Whilst the Erdem girl for spring isn’t necessarily edgy beyond belief, like her other London counterparts, one cannot blame Moralioglu for pushing his own boundaries to create something less conservative than he has so recently become associated with. Especially because the lingering thoughts and colors prove how smart this man is when dressing a woman – because even a woman with the darkest wardrobe on the planet will covet this collection.