Eugene Lin’s masterful mind knows how to please the audience – following his ‘Judgement of Paris’ collection in September, the ‘Cupid de Locke’ collection was a perfect example of staying true to your design, but reinventing it for the new season, in order to give a prescription of what can only be described as nothing short of amazing. Everything that made it a Eugene Lin show was there, and it was divine – the reconstructed trench coats, the exuberant and intricate prints, and the precise tailoring, it all came together in a collection that highlighted the immense design talent of one of London’s young designers. And with such an exquisite collection with such an acclaimed response, it doesn’t seem like Lin will stop at any time soon – thank goodness for that.
Workwear seems to be on the minds of London’s designers. But it’s not as simple as that, really, now is it? The question is always ‘how do we dress for work?’, or, ‘what will we wear to work?’. And Berardi, being the mastermind of modernity that he remains to be, has shown the world what is being hailed as the new workwear. No longer are pant suits boring and dated, but luxurious and interesting. Boardroom dresses were infused with a perfection playfulness between sexy but demure, and outerwear (jackets, coats, and capes) and sweaters were given a new lease of life with new shapes and new textures. Of course, the reworking of the tuxedo with a long train embellished with crystals, as well as their sister gowns, were a reminder of the glamorous side of working, as well as being Berardi necessities, for that added oomph of femininity. Perhaps you’re truly on to something, Mr. Berardi. And we’re not complaining.
Erdem Moralioglu can adapt himself faster than anyone else. In a world where designers stick to what they know and try to reinvent that, Moralioglu knows how to take what he does best – that is, feminine clothing that simultaneously flatters and empowers, with a penchant for florals – but turn it on its head. Whilst spring was about feminine and pretty neon, autumn will be all about sophisticated and gothic darks. Black dominated, but bright pops of floral colors and embellishments and brocades came through, leaving behind a subtle waft of elegance and a hint of sultry attitude. But not only that, Erdem showed off his ability to be just as dark as his contemporaries – there was something decidedly dark about the new collection, but in the most feminine way possible. Seems like being an Erdem femme fatale is going to be on everyone’s cards next season.