Mugler Men’s Spring 2013
Nicola Formichetti is known for his online presence. And since his appointment at the helm of fabled Parisian house Mugler, an online presence has been a domineering and dominating factor of the revamped, high glam, high fashion house. But for the first season since becoming the captain of the good ship Mugler, Nicola steered away from the hype of an online livestream, something which only supports the move in to a more focused, streamlined approach to the presentations. No hype, no crashing websites – good, old fashioned shows.
On to the collection, it is clear that Nicola’s focus on the clothing was paramount for next season. In its bare basics, the collection was all about elegant, sharp, and Parisian tailoring, with severe lines and even sharper cuts, as per the Mugler way. The color palette reflected the inspiration of sea life, including white, black, seafoam, coral, sea blue, alongside lustrous shades of sand and grey glass. The embossed leathers and plastic-like sheens gave off an air of cruel irony, that such a beautiful thing is tainted by something unabashedly universal like pollution. The cut worked fabrics showing the skin of the tanned, slender men emphasized the iconic Mugler eroticism, and felt almost Helmut Newton-esque in its bold severity of its sex appeal – subtle, understated, yet extremely obvious.
The key appeal of the entire collection, however, was it’s overall wearability, something that the Mugler house under Formichetti has not yet been instilled in past collections. This focus on the clothes and the opportunity to actually embrace the clothes as clothing, and the less attention on the socially inclined media personality is clear to have aided in the overall success of this collection. And though many may protested the lack of livestream, this editor embraces it with open arms. Viva la Mugler!