Stella McCartney Spring 2013

For Stella McCartney, 2012 was a big year. And for two seasons, her collections consisted of sportswear heavy inspired clothing, but with good reason – her appointment at Adidas for both her own collaboration and the Team GB Olympics uniforms was more than enough to suffice. But for the new season, it seems that even the Queen of Sexy Confidence has pared back.

Indeed, looking at the collection, one can see the smoke trails left behind by fast running collections – many of the opening pieces had an air of slouchiness about them, as if the competitors are finally relaxing. The far more relaxed silhouette is certainly something exciting for the feminine client that McCartney is catering to, and it does seem as if McCartney is still growing as a designer, opening her repertoire to new ideas that are clearly working well. But the collection quickly returned to the sportswear-esque feel, but in a more structured way than before – whilst the previous collections were thigh high hems and skirts, the spring collection was definitely more masculine and fitted, with a focus on a sharp tailoring that has that Stella signature – cool, effortless, powerful, yet still inextricably feminine. Of course, her foray in to the world of the peplum was surely one of the more successful peplum approaches, given that hers were mostly subtle. The addition is shapeless shaping – a belt cinched here, oversized fabric there – only exemplified how utterly chic the collection was. And not to be pedantic, but the color palette was something of a work of art – bright orange, olive green, soft lime green, black, white and leopard, with cobalt blue and a beautiful mixed print to throw in to the mix for an added sense of playfulness – an aspect of design that McCartney is a natural at.

It comes as no surprise that McCartney’s front row was filled with friends and family alike, as well as the usual industry crowd. And yet there’s something in that. A true family girl, this is someone whose famous father forced his children in to making a name for themselves, which is precisely what Stella has done. And perhaps this sense of homeliness and her ability to consistently create collections that are without major flaws is what causes her to create garments that are true to the femininity that she represents. Either way – Stella is a spring girl, and there’s no denying that.